Wednesday, February 13, 2013

How To: Forging A Point On A Knife Blade.

HOT CHISEL AND FORGE TECHNIQUE

This technique works well on flat stock, saves time and is fairly easy to do. With flat stock, forging the point entirely can be a bit difficult because the end tends to buckle, fold, upset or mushroom, and you often get “fish lips” at the very point, especially when the stock is thin and wide. With this technique you can avoid and/or minimize most of those problems and still get the desired improved grain flow along the edge up to the point on single edged blades.

#1. Hot chisel the end at an angle and snap it off in a vice.

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#2. Deburr and dress the hot cut end.

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#3. Lay the back of the blade on the anvil and use a flat faced hammer to move the point down towards the anvil, at a forging heat until it lays flush with the anvil surface.

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The "precision hand forged" (bevels included) blade.

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More on forging, grain flow and directional strength, CLICK HERE.

5 comments:

  1. Not really a knife guy (heresy!), but very much an edge tool guy. I learned of you by reading the primitiveedge blog and some of the photos of your work....amazing! Beautiful filework! Really sublime on some of your primitives. This is something that I am working on myself, so when I can see REALLY good work......I have a long way yet to go.

    Anyway, I was looking through you on the bench 2005 I think, and saw this photo of your sharpening stones.

    http://smg.photobucket.com/user/taigoo/media/On%20The%20Bench/Sharpeningequipment.jpg.html?sort=3&o=61

    Can you point me in the direction to learn more? I am trying to find info/people who are using american natural stones, and am finding the info thin on the ground. Pretty much only arkansas/noviculite. I look for info on silica shales like japanese waterstones and only get info on oil drilling, hahaha. Have you writen for any blogs or forums on this? I have had fair luck with tile store shale (kinda soft but works) and some random sedimentary from the Oregon coast (too soft/hard, a few just right but uneven grain distribution). The stuff in your photos looks very interesting! I use mostly Japanese naturals for real sharpening.

    Sharpening is my meditation, woodworking is a hobby but I have always loved smithing. I am at the point where I need hands-on after years of books and small tool making. If my medical condition lets up, I would love to learn from you (your rates are a bargain, and thats from a cheap SOB!). For now I stay close to home, though.

    Thanks,
    Jason Thomas

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    Replies
    1. Sorry for the slow reply. I’ve been real busy lately.

      Those are just a collection of stones I gathered over the years. I mostly use oil stones for sharpening, Norton India for the course grits and Arkansas for the finer grits. I use the water stones more for sanding and polishing.

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    2. I do appreciate your reply.... it looks like my (never-ending) search continues, haha! When I finish with my waterstone foolishness, I'll gladly return to Indie's and Arkies. Simple, effective and a great return on your dollar. You have to love a stone that lasts for generations.

      Thanks again and love your work.

      Jason

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  2. Just wanted to also add that if anyone has a blade like this and are looking for an excellent sharpener for it I would strongly recommend the DMT knife sharpener, which is hand-made in the USA and is truly a top of the line multi-purpose sharpener.

    - Sash

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